Going South


I’ve been in Malmö briefly twice in ten years. When my girlfriend had her two last performances with Fictional Copies  I took the chance to go and see it, and catch up with old friends as well. The cast of Fictional Copies had rented an apartment just a block away from Möllan, which is the more residential yet funky area of Malmö. Right there on the corner of the square was Kaffebaren På Möllan, where we had breakfast everyday. Typical Italian style breakfast with a sandwich, an espresso and a glass of OJ. First morning, I bumped into a long lost mate from Stockholm. It gives you an idea what kind of bar it is, when that happens! They were serving a robusta blend by J&N, but I think one day after I got back to Stockholm, they started serving espresso from Love Coffee Roasters, so that was my bad timing.

Next stop was Djäkne, a coffee bar where my friend Luis works, but he wasn’t in at our first visit. Got served a lovely sandwich and a filter coffee with Suke Qute from Love Coffee. Great stuff. The place was one of the most stylish bars I’ve seen around Scandinavia so far! Djäkne is a multiple roaster venue, which gives both baristi and customers the opportunity to sample some really good stuff from all around Sweden. Djäkne is also a very interesting concept regarding this “coffice” trend we see in Sweden. Here they have introduced an app where you can order your coffee to be picked up at any given time, to save time.

Last time I was in Malmö, I went to Lilla Kafferosteriet, a very charming old place in the heart of the city, two blocks away from Djäkne. This time around, I didn’t have the chance really. But I had a coffee with their roaster Kristian who I find is one of the nicest blokes in coffee! He is also a mean disc golfer! Hope to catch Kristian in Stockholm instead.

Then it was time to see the mighty Dan Stenqvist of Solde. Dan used to (and still very sporadically does) write a blog about coffee that I read a long time ago. Now he, and the rest of the Solde crew, are more about being family- and businessmen, which is only natural after so many years in the industry. Solde has been around as a coffee bar for about 8 years, and they started roasting in 2010. I have to admit that the first couple of times I tried their stuff, I was yet to be impressed. But this time around, their coffee was really on par with some of the best in Sweden. It’s a very non pretentious bar, very sparse with stuff to eat (“You want a sandwich, sure, I’ll make you one..”) but always pumping.  And friendly!

Around the corner from Solde, There is the number one coffee geek place in Malmö, Te- och Kaffehuset. Only a few days earlier, Timmy had beaten me at the first round of the Swedish Aeropress Championships, but due to me travelling south, I missed out on the Swedish Brewers Cup, where Timmy also had competed. So I was lucky to sample some of his coffee roasted by Turun Kahvipaahtimo. And as it was served, owner Samuel stepped into the house and we had a lovely time, all of us and Samuels dog. I love the fact that Te- och Kaffehuset both works as a coffee bar as well as a retailer for all things coffee (and tea).

Going back to Djäkne, I ended up in a friendly disagreement with Jens Brine, owner of Impod, over the latest (fad) grinder EK43. In order to persuade me into getting what’s great with it, he invited me down to his place the following day, which happened to be next door to the Solde Roastery. Jens showed me around at his little workshop, where there were very impressive machinery and prototypes, yet to be presented to the world shortly. We ended up drinking a lot of coffee shots, and though we couldn’t agree all the way, there were very small things to agree to disagree on. In all, a lovely time with a lovely chap! And I got to see the Solde roastery quickly, where Dan had left me some really cool samples. Was too coffeed out to take pictures though.

Malmö seems to me to be a place where coffee in Sweden took off early. There is still a culture around the coffee bar, rather than a hybrid café with great coffee, great food and even great wine/beer on offer that seems to be happening more and more in Stockholm for instance. I appreciate that actually. Especially when on holiday. The rest of Malmö seemed like a charming city, and its people were very friendly. I’d like to come here more often! Thanks to all the lovely coffee peeps for your hospitality and time!

NP: Tom Petty Down South


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